In my quest for the same, I like to visit places which enlighten me about it. The Galle cricket stadium has been on my bucket list for quite some time. It is one those stadiums which is not just picturesque but also holds a lot of history and landmark cricket moments. This is the ground where Muttiah Muralidharan, the highest wicket-taker in Test Cricket, chose to play his final Test match. And on that very ground, on that very day, he claimed his 800th wicket. If that doesn’t make a place sacred, I don’t know what does.

So when I was planning my trip to Srilanka, I knew I had to include Galle in my itinerary, just so that I can visit the stadium. That no active cricket match was scheduled during that came as a disappointment but I am well aware that you don’t get everything that you dream or wish for.

The Galle cricket stadium sits right adjacent to the Galle Fort and Indian Ocean. At the entrance, you are greeted with the Board that shouts “Galle Cricket Club” along with the banners of “One Team, One Nation”, that happens to the official slogan for the National Cricket team.

I was not allowed entry into the stadium and understandably so. Why would they let a random tourist enter the stadium? I was determined though. I begged and pleaded. I told them I am from India and it was important for me to see the stadium. It was important. I have dreamt of it for so long.

The administrator saw through my pleadings. A simple dressed man with a moustache and curly hair, he was probably a cricket fanatic like me. He looked at me, took a few seconds pause and then gave a half smile before allowing me a quick 5-minute visit, albeit with a guard present.

I dropped my backpack and ran towards the entrance. A small, narrow and dimly lit path lead to the ground. Picture the many back angle shots in a sports movie. Where a coach or a player is exiting a tunnel into the stadium. It felt exactly like that. Only that I had the ground empty and no arousing cheers of my name.

I entered the ground. There was a knee-level fence guarding the ground. For a change, it was good to see a stadium that didn’t feel like jail. That didn’t create boundaries between the players and the viewers. No cricket was happening but I could feel and imagine the thrill of watching a Test match here in such close proximity and with a UNESCO World Heritage in the background.

The stadium hosted its first test in 1998. No major alteration could be done to the stadium at it stands in the vicinity of a UNESCO World heritage site. The stadium was terribly damaged during the 2004 Tsunami and was rebuilt with the help of Surrey Cricket Club and cricketers Shane Warne and Ian Botham.

Stadium That Doesn't Feel Like a Prison

Even with all the new additions, it remains a small-capacity stadium. But I was not complaining. I like to watch my cricket in peace, without the hullaballoo and in company of people who understand the game. Galle International Stadium checked them all.

The ground in itself was not very huge, unlike today where we are witnessing a maniac race to build large capacity stadiums just so that more and more people could be fitted in. While I support the idea that they allow for more fans to experience the game from the stadium, they are a big disappointment in terms of operations and logistics. Fans don’t get basic services like water, food and cleanliness. In a 90,000-seat stadium, cricket becomes a spectacle you watch on a screen thirty rows away. Here, you could theoretically hear the ball hit the bat before the sound reaches you.

The stadium houses two Pavilions - Mahindra Rajapaksa Pavilion and the Galle Cricket Club Pavilion. The Mahindra Rajapaksa Pavillion was constructed in 2006 and is named after the Sri Lankan President. The stadium’s location allows for fan to catch a glimpse of the action not just from within the stadium itself but also from top of the Galle Fort, which offers breathtaking views of the action.

Despite being hot, close proximity to the ocean allows for the cool breeze to flow through the stadium. The sky was gloriously blue. I wanted to stay longer but my five minutes were over. The administrator was kind enough to not interfere in my overstay, allowing me take back happy memories. I took a last glance at the stadium and promised it that I will be back one day to catch Test match proceedings. I hope it remembers me when I do.

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New Story Drops Every Wednesday!

In this blog, I unearth forgotten gems, celebrate historical triumphs, and explore the finest literature from the world of cricket.

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More Stadium Diaries:

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1. A World Cup Final In The Dark

2. Lara: The England Chronicles (Book Review)

3. War of the drinks

4. When Tony Grieg Cradled Gundappa Vishwanath like a baby

5. Before the IPL: Story of India’s First Cricket Carnival

6. 5 Must-Read Books on Indian Cricket

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Seating and Layout

Courtesy of being born and brought up in Delhi, I am aware of the ground seating and layout. Most of the stadium view is obstructed by huge pillars and angled roofs, making it a tough sit for longer duration matches. I understand that the stadium is old but the need for renovation hasn’t been felt more than it feels now. The good viewing angles are limited and you need to be aware of the viewing angles and corresponding seats before booking your tickets at the stadium.

All factors considered, North East/West Stands are the best at the Kotla. They offer an almost straight view without any hindrance from the pillars. The East Stand Ground Floor comes second close, offering a horizontal view of the proceedings. But it comes with a caveat.

In Kotla, the ground is separated from the seating by a fence which might be an obstruction for Ground Floor viewers. But other than that, the view is close to perfect, with players in close proximity and action quite easy to follow. The First Floor offers a slightly distant but non-obstructive view and sits perfectly between the Ground Floor and Second floor. What makes these stands preferable is the pricing, which is not astronomical like some of the other premium stands.

It is a no brainer to book the North West Stand Ground Floor. I am fortunate to get the stand of my choice. Because the economical tickets didn’t last long.

Connectivity

The stadium is well connected by Delhi Metro, with Delhi Gate being the nearest station. The Station is on the Violet line network and is literally adjacent to Gate no. 16 and 17 of the stadium.

On match days, the DMRC runs extra trains beyond their schedule time to facilitate fans and match attendees to reach their desired locations. Getting out of the stadium can be tricky as the station and metro gets crowded, so it is advisable to plan your exit and not leave the stadium in a frenzy.

The Kotla is also very well connected by road through buses and three-wheelers. When it comes to three-wheelers, do not forget to bargain or negotiate as they tend to inflate prices arbitrarily during match days.

Overall, travelling to Kotla is an economical and convenient affair.

The Ticket ‘Mess’

Tickets. There is a major confusion due to different booking partners for different associations. But there is an ever bigger problem. The season tickets.

This is my first encounter with the newly introduced ‘Season Ticket’ system by the Delhi District Cricket Association (DDCA). I am alien to the concept. Earlier, tickets for Test matches were sold for individual days. In the new system, tickets for all 5 days are sold collectively. This means a single person gets tickets for all 5 days. Even if they wish to attend a single day or a couple of days. Does it make sense to you? It doesn’t to me.

It seems that the administrators are losing on revenue with Tests not lasting their full quota of five days. It also creates an abject situation of demand and supply, giving the administrators am option to sell tickets at exorbitant prices. Now you know why there are empty seats at the stadium despite it showing sold out online.

I found the system to be unfair and exclusionary. So many genuine fans are left wanting for tickets. I have people reach out to me for tickets - at metro stations, outside the stadium. To a point where I felt disappointed with the mess that this system had created. It breaks my heart seeing the way fans continue to be treated in this country. (More on this below).

So, what’s the solution?

The BCCI and the State Associations should work together on creating a single online ticket booking platform. Just for cricket matches, with all the essential information, procedures and guidelines. Most importantly, they should put out timely information as to how many tickets will be made available for a particular match and how they will be made available to the public.

And to accommodate the large cricket following audience in the country, bring back the old individual day booking system.

Day 1: Quintessential Test cricket

All this while, I am repeatedly asked “Test cricket, really”? “How can you watch a match for five days”? I smile and pass on the question. This is about emotions. Emotion, like humor, is subjective. I have reached that stage in my life where I don’t feel the need to explain or justify. February 17, 2023. Day 1. I feel the shift in energy the moment I am in the vicinity of the stadium. The feeling is not new, but thrills me every time.

The inside of the stadium is a different atmosphere. The crowd is building up slowly. It’s nothing like what you see in the IPL. I navigate through the bustling streets and stairs to reach my seat. The sun is still taking it’s position as the preparations are in their final stages.

The weather is not on my side. Hazy, dark and smoky, unlike the last few days where I was able to sight the blue sky. But it doesn’t bother me. It is the morning of the first day of a test match. Something that I have only heard in conversations or read about in books.

This is also Pujara’s 100th Test. Cheteshwar Pujara is an enigma for the current generation of fans. A cricketer who is so devoted to the craft of batting that he can leave balls all day and still be standing with a smile on his face. He thrives in pain and pressure. Batting is meditation for him.

He gets brutally hit in the 2021 Sydney Test multiple times. On the head, hand and chest. Cummins and co hand him nasty blows. He might not be as flamboyant as a Kohli or as classy as a Rahane. But he puts a price on his wicket which is exorbitant for the opposition to afford. Playing hundred Tests is no mean feat and I am happy that I am here experiencing the moment live.

Ravi Shastri’s voice echoes through the advertisement-laden Kotla grounds as the captains make their way out for the toss. The Border-Gavaskar Trophy holds its pose in the background. Rohit Sharma is at his candid best. Cummins choose to bat. The Test is underway.

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My excitement is at peak because of the composition of the sides. These are teams with players who value and prioritize Test Cricket. Also because they can afford to, given their Boards dominant economic position.

Siraj’s contest with Warner is fun to watch. He is constantly trying new things to intimidate the Australian openers. He is one bowler who I look forward to watching more because of the intensity he brings to the game.

It is now time to witness magic in action, as India’s emphatic spin-duo of Ashwin and Jadeja take guard. Ashwin, in particular, is someone who I have wished to see bowl live. His knowledge of the game and awareness of his craft makes him a destructive force. Only he can do what he does.

My seat in the ground sits at an obtuse angle and it is almost difficult to notice Ashwin’s masterplan or his setup. But I can see Australian batters being watchful and trying to play him out.

The Australian batters don’t disappoint. Khawaja is watchful and crafts a brilliant innings. Labuschagne, in his short innings of 18, plays a cover drive to Shami, which I am going to remember for the rest of my life. Exquisite. I am looking forward to watch Smith bat but the star batter is in no mood to thrill the Delhi crowd, as he is back in the pavillion before anyone could notice.

Peter Handscomb is the surprise I am not ready for. From his unusual batting stance to his mindset, he makes the day exciting and the match competitive. He is timing the ball like a piece of iron getting attracted to a magnet. I want Test matches in India to last full five days. But Australia folding up on Day 1 allows me to catch a glimpse of Indian openers, particularly Rohit.

I am amazed by how quickly Rohit gets into position after judging the line and length of the ball. Cummins steams in, gets into his delivery stride and pitches a good length delivery. It is only slightly wide but enough for Rohit to lash on to it and cut it like a knife falling on butter. The ball races to the boundary and I am treated to the famous square cut by our very own Hitman.

Unpleasant Stadium Experience

I have been to Kotla many times before and some things don’t seem to change. Seating for example. Broken, dirty and uncomfortable. Also, is it too much to ask for basic amenities such as a drinking water and clean toilets in a cricket stadium in the country’s capital? Food pricing continues to be exorbitant. The Ticket Booking system is a mess.

These are all recipes that would keep fans away from the stadiums in any other country. Not in India though. The administrators have become complacent, knowing the fans would fill up the stadiums anyhow and hence don’t consider it important enough to improve the fan experience for which they are paying their hard earned money. I hope to be optimistic but am not sure if it ever will.

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Day 3: Marching Towards Victory

Professional duties keep me away from attending Day 2. After the proceedings of Day 2, it is clear that the game wasn’t going to last long. Day 3 promises a thrilling climax. Kotla is full and brimming with palpable energy. However, I am missing Day 1’s vibe. Day 1 felt like quintessential Test cricket day - slow, peaceful and suspenseful. Every delivery was a contest.

The crowd was more involved as it appreciated good cricket irrespective of the side they were supporting. I found friends in strangers, with whom I could discuss and talk cricket with strangers around me. I had never experienced this in any other format. This is what I seek.

Each session and day promise a different experience, which is what makes Test cricket stand out. Australia collapse like a pack of cards on Day 3, which doesn’t come as a surprise considering how defensive they have been in their adaptability and skill to play spin ever since the tour began.

I am left disappointed with the lack of fight from Australia in the second innings, which doesn’t allow the Test to progress for more than 3 days. I think it’s high time teams stop blaming pitches and focus on skill and application. As India completes the chase, the stadium erupts in joy.

I head out of the stadium not knowing when I will be coming back. Kotla doesn’t get the number of international games that it used to. The pitch here is sub-standard and the weather highly unfeasible for sporting action. And the fan experience continues to deteriorate. It pains me to see what this iconic stadium has been made into which boasts of iconic cricket memories. But I would like to hope. As Andy Dufresne says in Shawshank Redemption,

“Hope is a good thing maybe the best of the things. And no beautiful thing ever dies.”New story drops every Wednesday!

Share

New story drops every Wednesday!

In this blog, I unearth forgotten gems, celebrate historical triumphs, and explore the finest literature from the world of cricket.

If you find these stories meaningful, or if they show you why cricket is important on and off the field, consider sharing them or subscribing.

Subscribe now

Maybe consider buying me a cup of coffee?

While everything on CFC is free to read, we have been a reader-supported platform since the beginning. Your support helps me sustain this dream and to keep researching, writing, and traveling to cricket grounds to bring you stories that matter.

Buy Me A Coffee

More Stadium Diaries:

You May Also Like:

1. A World Cup Final In The Dark

2. Lara: The England Chronicles (Book Review)

3. War of the drinks

4. When Tony Grieg Cradled Gundappa Vishwanath like a baby

5. Before the IPL: Story of India’s First Cricket Carnival

6. Palwankar Baloo: A Legacy Lost To History

7. A Day At The Galle Cricket Stadium

8. Blood on the Pitch: Nari Contractor, Charlie Griffith and Frank Worrell’s Gift

Want to Read More of My Writing?

I also write newsletters about travel and food. If you are looking for travel ideas and itineraries or just want to read fascinating travel stories, you should consider following Backpack Chronicles by clicking the buttons below:

Backpack Chronicles

Stories from my explorations on travel, food and culture.

By Lakshit Singhal