India and Australia. Top two ranked teams. Delhi. Fortress since 1987. Hosting a Test after 6 years. The hype is real. I am not a big admirer of the archaic stadium, grappling with outdated architecture and less than pleasant facilities. But it’s a Test match. I make it a point to not miss.
Seating and Layout
Courtesy of being born and brought up in Delhi, I am aware of the ground seating and layout. Most of the stadium view is obstructed by huge pillars and angled roofs, making it a tough sit for longer duration matches. I understand that the stadium is old but the need for renovation hasn’t been felt more than it feels now. The good viewing angles are limited and you need to be aware of the viewing angles and corresponding seats before booking your tickets at the stadium.
All factors considered, North East/West Stands are the best at the Kotla. They offer an almost straight view without any hindrance from the pillars. The East Stand Ground Floor comes second close, offering a horizontal view of the proceedings. But it comes with a caveat.
In Kotla, the ground is separated from the seating by a fence which might be an obstruction for Ground Floor viewers. But other than that, the view is close to perfect, with players in close proximity and action quite easy to follow. The First Floor offers a slightly distant but non-obstructive view and sits perfectly between the Ground Floor and Second floor. What makes these stands preferable is the pricing, which is not astronomical like some of the other premium stands.
It is a no brainer to book the North West Stand Ground Floor. I am fortunate to get the stand of my choice. Because the economical tickets didn’t last long.
Connectivity
The stadium is well connected by Delhi Metro, with Delhi Gate being the nearest station. The Station is on the Violet line network and is literally adjacent to Gate no. 16 and 17 of the stadium.
On match days, the DMRC runs extra trains beyond their schedule time to facilitate fans and match attendees to reach their desired locations. Getting out of the stadium can be tricky as the station and metro gets crowded, so it is advisable to plan your exit and not leave the stadium in a frenzy.
The Kotla is also very well connected by road through buses and three-wheelers. When it comes to three-wheelers, do not forget to bargain or negotiate as they tend to inflate prices arbitrarily during match days.
Overall, travelling to Kotla is an economical and convenient affair.
The Ticket ‘Mess’
Tickets. There is a major confusion due to different booking partners for different associations. But there is an ever bigger problem. The season tickets.
This is my first encounter with the newly introduced ‘Season Ticket’ system by the Delhi District Cricket Association (DDCA). I am alien to the concept. Earlier, tickets for Test matches were sold for individual days. In the new system, tickets for all 5 days are sold collectively. This means a single person gets tickets for all 5 days. Even if they wish to attend a single day or a couple of days. Does it make sense to you? It doesn’t to me.
It seems that the administrators are losing on revenue with Tests not lasting their full quota of five days. It also creates an abject situation of demand and supply, giving the administrators am option to sell tickets at exorbitant prices. Now you know why there are empty seats at the stadium despite it showing sold out online.
I found the system to be unfair and exclusionary. So many genuine fans are left wanting for tickets. I have people reach out to me for tickets - at metro stations, outside the stadium. To a point where I felt disappointed with the mess that this system had created. It breaks my heart seeing the way fans continue to be treated in this country. (More on this below).
So, what’s the solution?
The BCCI and the State Associations should work together on creating a single online ticket booking platform. Just for cricket matches, with all the essential information, procedures and guidelines. Most importantly, they should put out timely information as to how many tickets will be made available for a particular match and how they will be made available to the public.
And to accommodate the large cricket following audience in the country, bring back the old individual day booking system.
Day 1: Quintessential Test cricket
All this while, I am repeatedly asked “Test cricket, really”? “How can you watch a match for five days”? I smile and pass on the question. This is about emotions. Emotion, like humor, is subjective. I have reached that stage in my life where I don’t feel the need to explain or justify. February 17, 2023. Day 1. I feel the shift in energy the moment I am in the vicinity of the stadium. The feeling is not new, but thrills me every time.
The inside of the stadium is a different atmosphere. The crowd is building up slowly. It’s nothing like what you see in the IPL. I navigate through the bustling streets and stairs to reach my seat. The sun is still taking it’s position as the preparations are in their final stages.
The weather is not on my side. Hazy, dark and smoky, unlike the last few days where I was able to sight the blue sky. But it doesn’t bother me. It is the morning of the first day of a test match. Something that I have only heard in conversations or read about in books.
This is also Pujara’s 100th Test. Cheteshwar Pujara is an enigma for the current generation of fans. A cricketer who is so devoted to the craft of batting that he can leave balls all day and still be standing with a smile on his face. He thrives in pain and pressure. Batting is meditation for him.
He gets brutally hit in the 2021 Sydney Test multiple times. On the head, hand and chest. Cummins and co hand him nasty blows. He might not be as flamboyant as a Kohli or as classy as a Rahane. But he puts a price on his wicket which is exorbitant for the opposition to afford. Playing hundred Tests is no mean feat and I am happy that I am here experiencing the moment live.
Ravi Shastri’s voice echoes through the advertisement-laden Kotla grounds as the captains make their way out for the toss. The Border-Gavaskar Trophy holds its pose in the background. Rohit Sharma is at his candid best. Cummins choose to bat. The Test is underway.
My excitement is at peak because of the composition of the sides. These are teams with players who value and prioritize Test Cricket. Also because they can afford to, given their Boards dominant economic position.
Siraj’s contest with Warner is fun to watch. He is constantly trying new things to intimidate the Australian openers. He is one bowler who I look forward to watching more because of the intensity he brings to the game.
It is now time to witness magic in action, as India’s emphatic spin-duo of Ashwin and Jadeja take guard. Ashwin, in particular, is someone who I have wished to see bowl live. His knowledge of the game and awareness of his craft makes him a destructive force. Only he can do what he does.
My seat in the ground sits at an obtuse angle and it is almost difficult to notice Ashwin’s masterplan or his setup. But I can see Australian batters being watchful and trying to play him out.
The Australian batters don’t disappoint. Khawaja is watchful and crafts a brilliant innings. Labuschagne, in his short innings of 18, plays a cover drive to Shami, which I am going to remember for the rest of my life. Exquisite. I am looking forward to watch Smith bat but the star batter is in no mood to thrill the Delhi crowd, as he is back in the pavillion before anyone could notice.
Peter Handscomb is the surprise I am not ready for. From his unusual batting stance to his mindset, he makes the day exciting and the match competitive. He is timing the ball like a piece of iron getting attracted to a magnet. I want Test matches in India to last full five days. But Australia folding up on Day 1 allows me to catch a glimpse of Indian openers, particularly Rohit.
I am amazed by how quickly Rohit gets into position after judging the line and length of the ball. Cummins steams in, gets into his delivery stride and pitches a good length delivery. It is only slightly wide but enough for Rohit to lash on to it and cut it like a knife falling on butter. The ball races to the boundary and I am treated to the famous square cut by our very own Hitman.
Unpleasant Stadium Experience
I have been to Kotla many times before and some things don’t seem to change. Seating for example. Broken, dirty and uncomfortable. Also, is it too much to ask for basic amenities such as a drinking water and clean toilets in a cricket stadium in the country’s capital? Food pricing continues to be exorbitant. The Ticket Booking system is a mess.
These are all recipes that would keep fans away from the stadiums in any other country. Not in India though. The administrators have become complacent, knowing the fans would fill up the stadiums anyhow and hence don’t consider it important enough to improve the fan experience for which they are paying their hard earned money. I hope to be optimistic but am not sure if it ever will.
Day 3: Marching Towards Victory
Professional duties keep me away from attending Day 2. After the proceedings of Day 2, it is clear that the game wasn’t going to last long. Day 3 promises a thrilling climax. Kotla is full and brimming with palpable energy. However, I am missing Day 1’s vibe. Day 1 felt like quintessential Test cricket day - slow, peaceful and suspenseful. Every delivery was a contest.
The crowd was more involved as it appreciated good cricket irrespective of the side they were supporting. I found friends in strangers, with whom I could discuss and talk cricket with strangers around me. I had never experienced this in any other format. This is what I seek.
Each session and day promise a different experience, which is what makes Test cricket stand out. Australia collapse like a pack of cards on Day 3, which doesn’t come as a surprise considering how defensive they have been in their adaptability and skill to play spin ever since the tour began.
I am left disappointed with the lack of fight from Australia in the second innings, which doesn’t allow the Test to progress for more than 3 days. I think it’s high time teams stop blaming pitches and focus on skill and application. As India completes the chase, the stadium erupts in joy.
I head out of the stadium not knowing when I will be coming back. Kotla doesn’t get the number of international games that it used to. The pitch here is sub-standard and the weather highly unfeasible for sporting action. And the fan experience continues to deteriorate. It pains me to see what this iconic stadium has been made into which boasts of iconic cricket memories. But I would like to hope. As Andy Dufresne says in Shawshank Redemption,
“Hope is a good thing maybe the best of the things. And no beautiful thing ever dies.”New story drops every Wednesday!
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